Johnston Canyon Ink Pots Hike Guide + Winter Tips

November 25, 2021 /

Johnston Canyon is one of the most – if not the most – popular hike in Banff. The Johnston Canyon trail follows a metal boardwalk between towering canyon walls and passes multiple blue waterfalls before reaching the vibrant Ink Pots.

The Johnston Canyon hike is beautiful in summer, but in winter its waterfalls ice over and the canyon becomes a complete winter wonderland.

In this guide I’ll tell you everything you need to know about the Johnston Canyon Ink Pots hike including hiking stats, parking/bus information, nearby camping opportunities, and winter trail information.

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~ Taylor ♡

Johnston Canyon Ink Pots Hike

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Quick Banff Guide

Parks Pass: You will need a National Park Pass for each day you’re in Banff. Passes can be purchased at the East Parks Gates, the Visitor Centre, any of the campgrounds, or online. If you’ll be in any of Canada’s National Parks for more than 7 days in a 365 day period, an annual Discovery Pass offers a better rate than purchasing individual day passes.

How to get to Banff: fly into Calgary International Airport. From here, rent a car, RV, or take one of the following shuttles to Banff:

Best Tours in Banff: here are all my recommendations for the best tours, activities, and unique experiences in Banff & beyond.

Roam Transit: once you arrive in Banff, use the local transit service as much as possible. There are bus lines within town, plus lines to popular spots like Lake Louise and Johnston Canyon. The bus to Lake Louise should be reserved in advance.

Parking: the best spot to park is the free lot next to the train station. More information about parking in town can be found here and parking fees can be paid here. Bylaw is strict, so ensure you’re following parking rules exactly.

Lodging & Camping: Here’s my guide for hotels in Banff (Organized by Category). If you’re visiting during peak summer (mid June to early September), make your lodging reservations FAR in advance. Front country and backcountry camping reservations must be made on the Parks Canada reservation system. The system typically opens in February and it’s recommended you make reservations then.

Reservations: for activities and restaurants should be made well in advance during summer. Get Your Guide and Viator are popular tour booking platforms whereas OpenTable is used for restaurants.

When to visit: Hiking – July to mid September. Backcountry camping, wildflowers, & water activities – July to August. Fall colours – mid September to early October. Wild ice skating – usually early December. Skiing (best snow), coldest temps & frozen waterfalls – January & February. Northern lights – December to February. Best spring skiing – March to April. Quietest months to visit – April, May, October, and November.

Visiting Moraine Lake or Lake Louise? Read my guide for how to get there with the new road closures. If you want to see Moraine Lake at sunrise, you can book a shuttle here.

Wildlife Safety: 11 ways to stay safe from wildlife, bear safety, & bear basics.

General Canada Travel Tips

Travel Insurance: ALWAYS purchase reliable travel insurance before your trip. This insurance is trusted by backpackers and adventure sport enthusiasts around the world. You can also use my link to receive 5% off SafetyWing policies. Here’s a blog post with more trustworthy travel insurance options you can compare.

Public transit is not common in North America, however every big city has their own local transit system. If you want to venture out of big cities or to any natural spot, plan to rent a car – here are the best budget car rental options in Canada. Trains (Via Rail) are not well connected within the country and are expensive. Hitchhiking is relatively uncommon here, however Poparide is becoming more popular for ride sharing.

Phone: popular providers are Rogers, Telus, and Koodoo. SIM cards can be purchased at the airport, phone stands, or provider storefronts. Canada has some of the most globally expensive phone rates.

Language: English & French (in Quebec).

Currency: Canadian dollars – displayed as “$” or “CAD”. Both cash and card are accepted everywhere.

Visas are typically not needed for stays up to 6 months in Canada.

Tipping culture: You are expected to tip 15-20% minimum on every meal. You are also expected to tip drivers, hair dressers, or anyone providing a “service” to you.

Tax: is not included in the price you see. Each province has their own tax bracket – Alberta 5%, Ontario 13%, British Columbia 12%, etc.

Helpful Banff Blog Posts

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Johnston Canyon Ink Pots

How to get to the Johnston Canyon Trailhead

Johnston Cayon hike
Ink Pots

Johnston Canyon is located along the scenic highway 1A in Banff. The drive is approximately 1hr 45mins (180kms) from the Calgary International Airport and 1hr 20 minutes (115kms) from Golden.

If you’re looking to hike Johnston Canyon and the Ink Pots, you can start from one of two trailheads; Johnston Canyon or Moose Meadows – Johnston Canyon being the more popular option. There are two parking lots at the Johnston Canyon trailhead, but they fill up entirely on weekends and on a daily basis during the summer months. Arrive as early as possible to ensure you get a spot.

Looking to rent a car while you’re in Banff? Check out my blog post for Canada’s best budget car + RV rental options.

Moose Meadows on the other hand almost always has space and is a good place to park as a plan B.

JOHNSTON CANYON TRAILHEAD GPS
MOOSE MEADOWS TRAILHEAD GPS

Typically visitors need to drive to all the trailheads in Banff, but Johnston Canyon has a direct bus from town. To get to Johnston Canyon by bus, take line 9 with Roam Transit. The bus typically runs mid May to mid October, however the route maintains a schedule on Saturdays and Sundays throughout the entire year. Bus fees are $10 roundtrip and can be paid in exact change upon boarding or via the ‘Token Transit‘ app.

If you’re looking to get an early start or stay within walking distance from Johnston Canyon and the Ink Pots, you can opt to stay at the Johnston Canyon Campground (which is located across the street from the trailhead), at the Johnston Canyon Lodge & Bungalows (next door to the trailhead), or the HI Mountain Wilderness Hostel and Castle Mountain Chalets which are both located a 10 minute drive down the road.

Alternatively, all my Banff lodging recommendations are listed below.

Where to Stay in Banff

From hostels to camping to luxury hotels – Banff has accommodations for everyone. Here are my top recommendations for where to lodge in Banff based on budget.

Where to stay in Banff

I recommend giving this post a read as I’ve listed every Banff hotel worth staying at and organized them by category.

BANFF HOTEL GUIDE

Lodging Options Near Banff

Enjoy that nature and activities of Banff National Park, but lodge away from the busy tourist town centre at any of the following:

Top Tours & Excursions in Banff

Banff Gondola – epic views from the top of Sulphur Mountain.

Banff Hop on Hop off – explore the park at your own pace.

Lake Minnewanka Cruise – take a scenic boat ride down the largest lake in Banff.

Moraine Lake sunrise – chartered bus to see alpenglow on Canada’s most beautiful lake.

Norquay via ferrata – epic beginner friendly climbing route across iron bars on Mt Norquay.

Sunshine Meadows Gondola – find wild alpine flowers and hike around pristine alpine lakes.

Click here for a complete list of the Banff tours I recommend:

MY RECOMMENDED BANFF TOURS

About the Johnston Canyon Ink Pots Trail

Johnston Canyon Hike
Johnston Canyon Boardwalk through the canyon
GO TO THE ALLTRAILS MAP
  • Distance: 11.7km
  • Elevation gain: 608m
  • Rated: moderate
  • Type of trail: out & back
  • Estimated time: 4-4.5hrs (2hrs roundtrip for the Upper Falls only)

The above statistics are if you were to hike all the way to the Ink Pots. If you choose to hike to the Upper Falls only, you can take 6.2kms and 334m of elevation gain off the above.

If you opt to hike the Johnston Canyon Ink Pots trail from Moose Meadows, you can reference this Alltrails map instead. This trail allows you to bypass the busy canyon and go straight to the Ink Pots through an entirely forested route.

Johnston Canyon is a very popular hike in Banff National Park. As a consequence of its popularity, the trail is almost always jam packed – especially if you’re planning to visit during the summer months. If you’re hoping to “beat the crowds,” I’d recommend visiting during shoulder season, winter, or starting very early/late in the day.

The Johnston Canyon portion of the hike follows a metal boardwalk through steep canyon walls where you’ll have the chance to look down over a river of blue water. There are both the Upper Falls and Lower Falls section where you’ll find waterfalls of varying sizes.

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In summer when it’s busy you can expect to wait in line at the Lower Falls for your photo op. This is a great place to practice your patience skills as the atmosphere can get quite hectic and the wait can be lengthy.

Once you pass the Upper Falls the crowd thins drastically and you’ll enter a beautiful forested section for the remainder of the hike until you reach the Ink Pots. The Ink Pots are a series of multicoloured pools which sit in a gorgeous valley – so gorgeous in fact that it’s become my favourite section of the entire Johnston Canyon Ink Pots hike.

You can hike the Johnston Canyon trail to the Ink Pots year round. I talk about hiking Johnston Canyon in winter later in this blog post.

Johnston Canyon Tours

Johnston Canyon hiking tours

You can 100% hike Johnston Canyon without a tour guide, however I’ve linked a few trustworthy Johnston Canyon tours below. Johnston Canyon tours are popular for a few reasons:

  • A knowledgeable guide provides transportation and accompanies you along the hike. They share geographic context and stories of the canyon
  • In the winter you’ll receive spikes for the canyon + your guide makes tasty hot chocolate at the end
  • Outside of summer the bus schedule is limited. Travellers without a car can visit Johnston Canyon at any time with a guided tour
  • New hikers may feel more comfortable hitting the trail with a certified guide
  • To meet other travellers

The Best Johnston Canyon Tours:

I also love the idea of this self guided audio tour. It spans Johnston Canyon in addition to 30 other locations in Banff, Jasper, and Yoho National Park.

Hiking the Johnston Canyon Ink Pots Trail

Johnston Canyon Hike
Waterfall along the Johnston Canyon Trail

From the Johnston Canyon trailhead you’ll begin to climb gentle elevation right away. Soon after the trailhead, the metal boardwalk starts which gives you a front row seat to the vibrant blue water flowing beneath your feet.

After meandering through the towering canyon walls for a while, the first notable point of interest you’ll come across is the Lower Falls. To see the falls you’ll cross the bridge and enter a small cave. This is where you’ll find the most significant “traffic jam” on the trail. If you want your photo here, you’ll have to wait in line.

Johnston Canyon Hike
Johnston Canyon Upper Falls in summer
Johnston Canyon Hike in winter
Johnston Canyon Upper Falls in winter

After the Lower Falls you’ll continue along the trail, passing a few smaller waterfalls along the way, until you reach the Upper Falls. The Upper Falls is the tallest waterfall on the Johnston Canyon trail and where ice climbers love to spend their time during the winter months.

Upper Falls to the Ink Pots

Ink Pots Hike, banff
Ink Pots in summer

After the Upper Falls hikers have the chance to continue on to the Ink Pots which adds an extra 6.2kms and 334m of elevation to the hike. The views at the Ink Pots make this extra hiking distance well worth the effort.

The entire trail to the Ink Pots from here is mainly forested with minimal views along the way. You’ll gain continuous elevation throughout this section of the hike, but it’s nothing overly strenuous.

Once you arrive at the Ink Pots you’ll find 5 blue/green pools varying in colour due to mineral deposits. The Inkpots are spring fed and maintain an annual temperature of 4 degrees celsius even in the winter which means they typically don’t freeze. The only time you’ll find they partially freeze over is during the January cold snap when temps hit -40.

Ink Pots Hike in winter - the Ink Pots do not freeze in winter
The Ink Pots started to freeze around the edges here during the January cold snap. This picture was taken on a -20 day just after the -40 cold snap

DO look for the bubbles at the bottom of the Ink Pots where the water fills. DON’T swim in the Ink Pots – this is not allowed as the area is extremely fragile. DO enjoy the valley the Ink Pots sit in. The surrounding mountains and vegetation are absolutely lovely.

The Johnston Canyon Creek is nearby which is a nice place to dip your feet into icy cold water on a warm day. From the Ink Pots, hikers can continue along the Sawback Trail which is a multi night backcountry trip that extends all the way to Lake Louise.

Hiking Johnston Canyon in Winter

Johnston Canyon hike in winter
Johnston Canyon boardwalk in winter

The Johnston Canyon Ink Pots hike is a great trail year round, however in the winter it transforms into a winter wonderland. You’ll find giant frozen waterfalls, ice climbers, and the bright blue Ink Pots that remain unfrozen throughout the entire winter season.

The trail does not cross avalanche terrain which makes this a safe winter venture. It’s recommended hikers always have spikes on-hand as the trail through the canyon can get extremely icy. I’ve got my winter spike recommendations listed above in this blog post along with some of my other favourite winter hiking gear + unique ways to stay warm.

Hikers typically do not need snowshoes to venture to the Ink Pots as the trail is always packed down. The exception to this is if you were to hike to the Ink Pots early in the day after a large snowfall.

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The Johnston Canyon hike is good for dogs

Canadian Rockies Hiking Tips

Hiking in the Canadian Rockies is much more advanced than hiking in other regions of Canada and around the world. Here you need to factor in high elevations, extreme weather, potentially dangerous wildlife, and vast wilderness.

Guides for hikes in: Banff | Jasper | Kananaskis | Kootenay | Waterton | Yoho

Approach: if you’re new to hiking in the Rockies, take a conservative approach and know it will likely take you longer than you think to complete a trail. Start out with smaller hikes and gradually work your way up when it comes to elevation, exposure, and remoteness. Additionally, ensure you have more than enough daylight to return to the trailhead. Keep in mind you may experience some form of altitude sickness if you’re new to the mountains.

Best Time of Year: you can hike year round in the Rockies however summer (July-early September) is best for any kind of summit hike, Larch season (when the trees turn yellow) generally happens the last week of September to the first week of October, and spring (May-June) is best for lower elevation hikes that do not cross avalanche terrain.

  • Hiking in winter? Check the avalanche bulletin, take an avalanche safety course, stick to conservative terrain, hike in groups, and don’t take risks. If you’re unsure, don’t go as the Canadian Rockies can be volatile in the snow. I go off local knowledge and use a combination of the slope angle tool on Caltopo and Google Maps satellite view to survey terrain before hiking.
  • My favourite weather tool for the Rockies is SpotWx.

Pets: Generally dogs are allowed on all trails in the Rockies unless otherwise stated. Dogs must remain leashed at all times.

Safety: Always tell someone (or better yet, multiple people) where you’re going and your estimated return time (check-in). Additionally, ensure you tell your safety contacts when you return (check out).

  • Carry a satellite communication device as there’s typically no cell service on-trail in the Rockies. The Garmin InReach Mini is a fan favourite, however newer iPhones (14+) have a satellite feature.

What to Bring: always carry more water and snacks than you need. I always have a thin pair of gloves, sunglasses, and sun protection with me too. Blister care, tissues, and a hat are always good to have on hand. Remember, whatever you pack in, you must pack out.

What to Wear: The key is to dress in layers so you can add or take away clothing on a need basis. A combination of wool/synthetic fibres is the best material and you’ll always want to bring an extra layer for warmth (even in summer). You’ll want sturdy footwear (I prefer boots over shoes), and a water/windproof jacket as weather here is unpredictable.

Wildlife: you’ll come across many animals in the Canadian Rockies (elk, moose, deer, etc). The best thing to do is hike in groups of 4+, make noise, give all animals space, and carry bear spray (learn how to use it, too). Here are bear safety tips from Parks Canada.

Maps: I use the Alltrails+ membership which allows users to download their maps and track their location via satellite even when they’re out of service. Alltrails is also currently the best resource to find hikes in the Canadian Rockies.

Canadian Rockies Camping Tips

Camping in the Rockies takes place in two forms – front country and backcountry. Front country camping is in an established campground with amenities like bathrooms, parking, and staff. Backcountry camping is when you hike into your campsite.

Unless you’re on some form of public land – random camping and free car camping is not permitted in the Canadian Rockies. If you do plan to “free” camp in the designated areas, you must purchase the Public Lands Camping Pass.

Camping Reservations: must be made far in advance, especially for popular sites in the National Parks. Reservation day (when booking goes live) typically occurs in February. Try to book your front country and backcountry reservations then as sites will book out instantly for the entire summer.

When to Camp: Camping can be done year round in some locations, however many campgrounds close for the winter. If you’re hoping to backcountry camp, July-August is the best time of year for warmer and more stable weather. Keep in mind, temperatures are typically very cold at night even during peak summer.

Backcountry Campgrounds: generally have a drop toilet (bring your own TP), picnic tables, tent pads, and bear facilities (lockers or a hanging device). Two items I don’t go backcountry without are dry bags for food storage and Stasher Bags for cooking, garbage, etc.

Hut Camping: the Alpine Club of Canada has established alpine huts scattered around the Rockies and beyond. These huts must be booked in advance and cater to backcountry skiers, hikers, and climbers.

Packing advice and my personal gear recommendations can be found in my Backcountry Gear Guide.

BACKPACKING TRAILS IN THE ROCKIES

Johnston Canyon Ink Pots Winter Hike

Recommended Hiking Gear for the Rockies

Below are my personal recommendations and favourite products for Rockies specific hiking gear.

If you’re after a more extensive gear breakdown, check out this post.

Backpack: I prefer a smaller 24L pack for shorter day hikes and a 36L bag for longer day hikes + light overnighters. I’ve been using the backpacks below for years and love all the features and durability they offer.

Hydration: I use the 3L Hydrapak to carry water. A 2L or 3L reservoir is typically the perfect size for any length of day hike. You can also bring lightweight aquatabs if you need to clean water on-the-go.

Footwear: I currently use the Scarpa Kailesh (men’s version) and full cushion crew Smartwool socks.

Safety: carry a communication device. The Garmin Inreach Mini is a fan favourite for its small size and price point.

I also always carry hiking poles (no need to purchase fancy hiking poles), a hat, and an extra layer.

Looking for my backcountry gear recommendations? Check out this post.

Rockies Hiking Gear: Winter

If you’re planning to hike the Rockies in winter, you’ll need to add a few more items to your gear arsenal. The below are my personal favourites.

Spikes: I love Hillsound’s trail crampon which provides killer traction and long-lasting durability.

Snowshoes: I use TSL’s sustainable Symbioz Hyperflex snowshoe, however any snowshoe from TSL is top of the line. This one is their midrange model which offers similar features at a light weight and better price point.

Gaiters: this is my top pick for gaiters which are great for keeping water and snow out of your boots. If you’re on a budget, these ones are a little more cost effective and have plenty of great reviews.

Warmth: I struggle with Raynaud’s disease and use Aurora Heat’s reusable, fur hand + ultra foot warmers which have made a massive difference for both winter hiking and skiing.

is the Johnston Canyon hike hard

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Outdoors: hiking trails, campgrounds, ski resorts, waterfalls & lakes

Planning: lodging, restaurants, public washrooms & transit hubs

Things to do: tours, viewpoints & unique activities

I lived in Banff for years and know all the best spots!

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can you hike to the ink pots in the winter

BANFF
HIKING TRAILS
JASPER

Happy adventuring!

Taylor ♡

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About the Author

HI, I’m Taylor – the voice behind The Holistic Backpacker.

After moving to Banff National Park in 2020 I became an outdoor adventure enthusiast and vowed to never stop exploring.

I now spend my days travelling the world, climbing mountains, and spending nights under the stars in the Canadian Rockies backcountry.

I created The Holistic Backpacker so I could share my adventures and help connect people like you with the same amazing experiences.

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