Valbona to Theth Hike Guide: Tips & Recommendations
The Valbona to Theth hikes is Albania’s most well known trail as well as one of the biggest bucket list hikes in the Balkan area. This hike starts from the beautiful Valbona Valley National Park and extends 15kms across the Albanian Alps (aka the Accursed Mountains) to the famed Theth National Park.
Along this trail you’ll hike through valleys and over mountain passes surrounded by rocky giants standing well over 2,000m. If you hike in July you may even see blooming fields of wildflowers.
In this post I’ll tell you everything you need to know about the Valbona to Theth hike plus outline helpful tips like where to stay and what to pack to ensure your hike is a success.
My hiker’s guide to the Albanian Alps has everything you need to know regarding travel in northern Albania.
Skip Ahead:
- Tips for hiking in the Albanian Alps
- Best time of year to hike Valbona-Theth
- Valbona-Theth – which direction is best?
- How to get to the Valbona-Theth trailheads
- Where to Stay in the Albanian Alps
- About the Valbona to Theth hike
- What to expect on the Valbona-Theth hike
- What to wear hiking in Albania
- Valbona-Theth hike FAQs
- Valbona-Theth hike FAQs
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- Things to do: viewpoints, unique activities & tours
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Quick Albania Travel Guide:
**Find my recommended Albania itineraries linked in the section below**
Travel Insurance: ALWAYS purchase reliable travel insurance before your trip. This insurance is trusted by backpackers and adventure sport enthusiasts around the world. You can also use my link to receive 5% off SafetyWing policies. Here’s a blog post with more trustworthy travel insurance options you can compare.
Best Time to Visit: May to September.
Best Activities: Looking for the best tours and activities around Albania? See my Viator shop for my top recommendations.
Currency: Albanian LEK (aka ALL). This is a closed currency so you’ll need to wait until you’re in Albania to withdraw/exchange money. Make sure you exchange any leftover money before you leave the country too. Credins ATMs don’t have a service charge.
Transportation: to enter the country you’ll find 1 international airport in Tirana, 1 port in Saranda (daily ferry arrivals/departures to Corfu, Greece), and a bus line from Montenegro. Buses are very cheap here, but unreliable and taxis are pricey in comparison. Driving is chaotic and there are no trains within the country.
Phone: purchase a local SIM card from Vodafone – the plans are cheap and they include lots of data, however international minutes are typically not available. Vodafone storefronts can be found in bigger cities (Tirana, Saranda, Shkoder, etc).
Language: Albanian, however you can get by with English. Google translate is recommended for smaller cities/villages.
Safety: I found Albania to be very safe. I and my fellow travellers had no trouble with theft and I felt comfortable walking around as a solo female at night. People are generally very welcoming here, but always keep your wits about you – no matter where you travel.
Helpful Info: don’t drink the tap water or bring a purifying bottle like this one. Most hostels/guesthouses/hotels have laundry facilities.
Purchase my Albania map which is downloadable to google maps on your phone. It has 200+ pinned locations around the country – all available at your fingertips.
Packing Guide: here’s my ultimate packing guide/travel essentials.
Albania is one of the last “undiscovered” countries in Europe. Plan your trip while prices & tourism levels are low!
Helpful Albania Blog Posts
Albania Itineraries: 1 week south | 1 week north | 2 weeks whole country | 1 month for backpackers
- My Ultimate Albania Backpacker Guide
- 15+ Helpful Tips You Should Know BEFORE Travelling Albania
- 30+ Best Things to do in Albania: Excursions, Tours, and Destinations
- 17 Best Places in Albania
- Hiker’s Guide to the Albanian Alps
- Valbona to Theth Hiking Guide
- 10+ Albania hikes Worth Doing
- Lodging: best hostels for backpackers | luxury hotels
Tips for Hiking in the Albanian Alps
For most people, hiking in Albania may seem intimidating. These tips should answer any questions you might have about hiking in this “unexplored” country of Europe.
- Hiking season runs from May-October, although the cooler temps & changing colours make May-mid June and September ideal months to visit.
- Stay at Wanderer’s Hostel in Shkoder prior to your trip to Valbona/Theth. You can store your extra luggage here while you’re away hiking.
- Water sources are limited on any trail, especially in the summer when sources dry up. Ensure you plan appropriately and pack lots of water. I always recommend bringing minimum 3L in a bladder like this.
- If you stick to the popular hikes, trails are generally well-marked and easy to follow.
- The ideal length of time to spend hiking in the Albanian Alps is 3-4 nights (unless you want to explore more trails).
- There are no shopping markets in the alps. Bring your own food from Shkoder or plan to eat at the local guesthouses.
- Take advantage of your guesthouse’s packed lunch option if you want to get an early start hiking.
- You don’t need a guide in the alps, however I’ve linked some great tours in the section below.
- Solo hiking is totally safe in Valbona granted you stick to the main trails and feel comfortable hiking alone.
- I had a local SIM card and had cell service throughout mainly all of Valbona and theth. Wifi at the guesthouses is typically standard.
- Hiking in summer is HOT. Wear breathable clothes, a full-coverage hat, and wear sunscreen.
- Get an early start to beat the heat. I started hiking at 4am every day, but by afternoon (at elevation) the mountains reached 35 degrees celsius in July.
- Bring extra cash. You won’t be able to use your cards in the alps. No card = no food.
Aside from Maja Rosit, the Theth to Valbona hike is very popular, plus it’s the only way to get to Theth without backtracking to Shkoder.
Popular Albania Tours
From Berat: 4×4 tour: Mount Tomorr & Sotira Waterfall | Bogove Waterfall & Osumi Canyon | Osumi Canyon Rafting
From Permet: Benja Hot Springs & Lengarica Canyon | Horseback Riding | River Rafting
From Tirana: Gamti Mountain & Bovilla Lake Hiking Tour | Bike Tour | Traditional Cooking Class | Zipline
From Tirana or Shkoder: Day trip to the Blue Eye of Theth & Grunas Waterfall | Shala River Day Trip
From Vlora: Boat tour to Haxhi Ali Cave & Sazan Island – Karaburun | Snorkelling
From Saranda/Ksamil: Paddle boarding the Islands | Butrint, Ksamil, Blue Eye, Lekuresi Castle – 1 Day | Day Trip to Gjirokaster | Catamaran to Korez & Kokomo Beach
UNIQUE: Multi-day hiking tour: Peaks of the Balkans
You can find more Albania tours I recommend here
Best Time of Year to Hike Valbona-Theth
The best time of year to hike in the Albanian Alps depends on what weather conditions you’re after. I personally think June and September are the best months for the Valbona-Theth hike, however below I explain each month so you can get the full picture.
In the winter months the alps receive heavy snowfall. Snow begins to fall in Valbona & Theth from late October to early November. The snow in Valbona/Theth begins to melt around late April to early May.
By late June the peaks and higher altitude zones should lose their snow and become accessible – aka a great time of year to go hiking in Albania’s mountains. June in the alps has slightly smaller crowds and cooler temperatures than the peak summer months. An average of 17-22 degrees during the day and 11 degrees at night; cooler at higher elevations if you’re hiking.
July and August are nice months to visit the Albanian Alps as this is when other backpackers will be around, fields of alpine wildflowers will bloom, and there’s next to no rain. I visited during July and temperatures at elevation reached 35 degrees+ which did make hiking difficult. I ran out of water and had to turn around on one hike. Plus I started hiking at 4:00am to beat the heat.
September and October is when autumn strikes the alps. September is similar to June for temperatures and this is when the fall colours change. October’s weather varies year-to-year and is a bit unpredictable.
June and September are the best months for the Valbona-Theth hike.
Valbona-Theth Hike – Which Direction is BEST?
The biggest debate regarding the Valbona-Theth hike is – what direction to hike it?
You can hike it in either direction, but without a doubt I recommend hiking Valbona to Theth for the following reasons:
- Theth is easier to access from Shkoder compared to Valbona. Ending your hike in Theth means you’ll have a fast trip (2-3hrs) back to Shkoder compared to the all day journey you’d have from Valbona.
- Visiting Valbona first means you can easily spend 1 night on the Shala River (the “Thailand of Albania”) or take a day trip.
- There’s significantly more shade on the Theth side of the trail. This means when the afternoon sun hits you’ll have shelter from the intense Balkan heat.
- If you leave Valbona early, you’ll have the trail pretty much all to yourself up to Valbona Pass.
- There’s a long, gruelling gravel road with no sun shelter you’ll have to endure right at the end if you were to hike from Theth. Best to get it out of the way first by starting from Valbona.
Valbona-Theth is the best direction to complete this hike.
How to get to the Valbona-Theth Hike
To reiterate – the hike is best completed in the direction of Valbona to Theth. I therefore recommend your itinerary look like the following:
Shkoder – Shala River (optional) – Valbona – Theth – Shkoder
My Hiker’s Guide to the Albanian Alps covers how to get to the trailheads in both Valbona and Theth. I’ll briefly go over how to get to the trailheads in this post, however I highly recommend reading my hikers guide for all the nitty-gritty details.
To first get from Shkoder to Valbona you’ll need to catch a mini bus to the Komani Lake ferry port where you’ll board a ferry to Fierza. Once you arrive in Fierza you’ll take another mini bus to Valbona which will drop you off directly at your guesthouse. Mini busses and ferries should be booked in advance here.
Before reaching Valbona you can opt to stay overnight at the Shala River (aka the “Thailand of Albania”).
After staying the night in Valbona, the next morning you’ll want to make your way to the trailhead on Valbona’s side of the hike which is located here. Depending on where your guesthouse is located this may be a few kilometres. There is a local (pricey) taxi you can take – ask your guesthouse provider for more information about this.
Alternatively if you do decide to hike from Theth instead, you’ll have to again take a mini bus from Shkoder, stay overnight in Theth/or get a late afternoon start the same day you arrive (only fast, confident hikers should attempt this).
The trailhead on Theth’s side is located approximately here. This is at least where the walking path strays away from the centre of the village and begins to gain elevation.
the journey to the valbona-theth hike can be cumbersome.
Albania Google Map – 200+ pins
Don’t feel like scrolling through blog posts trying to find things to do in Albania?
Then my Albania map is for you!
Get my 200+ recommendations all in one place for:
- Outdoors: hiking trails, waterfalls, secret beaches & national parks
- Places: ancient cities, beach towns & historical sites
- Things to do: viewpoints, unique activities & tours
- Planning: lodging, restaurants, bus stops & tedious details
Where to Stay on the Valbona-Theth Hike
In the Albanian Alps plan to stay in locally run guesthouses where you will sleep and eat home cooked meals. The gatehouse owners are proud of where they live and usually go above and beyond to make traveller’s experience in the alps special.
If you’re a backcountry camper, free camping is permitted in Albania. If you plan to free camp along the Valbona-Theth trail ensure you have all the gear, food, and water you’ll need. Services are very limited out there. If you do free camp on the Valbona-Theth trail, ensure you camp away from the actual trail, clean up after yourself, and stay away from property owned by the locals.
Where to Stay in Shkoder
Before you arrive in the alps, you’ll spend at least 1 night in Shkoder – the “gateway city” to the alps.
My #1 recommendation is to stay at Wanderer’s Hostel. The Wanderer’s staff is very knowledgeable about the alps and can help you plan your trip/book everything for you. You can also leave extra luggage here while you’re away hiking in their storage room. Ensure you book this hostel in advance as it fills up entirely during peak season.
- Backpackers: Aside from Wanderer’s there’s also Shkodra Backpackers.
- Mid-range: Shkodra apartment and the Sol Hotel.
- Luxury: Hotel Colloseo & Spa, and the Grand Hotel Europa offer you the 5 star experience in Shkoder.
Here my guide to Shkoder
luggage storage in Shkoder
Where to Stay in Valbona
- Upscale Option: Drino’s Guesthouse is absolutely lovely. I stayed here one night and thoroughly enjoyed my experience. Drino’s family owns a delicious restaurant nextdoor too.
- Luxury Stay: Valbona Resort & Spa
- Budget Stay: Bujtina Albjoni
- Popular Choice: Villas Jezerca
Here’s my guide to Valbona
Where to stay on the Valbona-Theth hike
Where to Stay in Theth
- Shpella Guesthouse is definitely the most sought after lodging destination in Theth. You must book this in advance as it does fill up during the summer months.
- Guest House Rrashkadoli is where I stayed due to the killer price point. This spot is a bit further from the main area and hiking trails in Theth, however the owners are some of the most wholesome people I’ve ever met and the place is so cozy and quiet.
- Guesthouse Villa Gurra has a nice central location at a good price point.
Here’s my guide to Theth
Where to store your luggage for the valbona-theth hike
About the Valbona-Theth Trail
- Distance: 15kms (depending where your guesthouses are situated)
- Elevation gain: around 955m
- Type of trail: point to point
- Rated: moderate
- Estimated time: 3-8 hours
The time for the Valbona-Theth hike varies depending on fitness levels and previous hiking experience. I completed this trail in 4hrs (with lots of photos breaks) as a very experienced hiker with a good level of fitness. I’ve heard other people say it took them 10hrs+ to complete the Valbona-Theth hike, but these are both outlier times. You should expect to fall somewhere in the middle.
**The Theth trailhead is where the walking path strays away from the main village and begins to gain elevation**
I personally found the Valbona-Theth hike easy. Despite its long distance, there’s no technical aspects or any level of route-find involved. The trail is easy to follow and there are tons of other hikers around making it nearly impossible to get lost.
Along the way there’s one small, natural water source and a couple places where you can purchase some overpriced beverages or small snack items. Aside from this you’ll need to be 100% self sufficient. I’d recommend requesting a packed lunch from your guesthouse before you leave so you have lunch to-go.
The thing you need to look out for the most on the Valbona-Theth hike is the heat. Ensure you bring plenty of water, sun protection, and food. I found fruit and sweet little treats were helpful when the heat had me down.
What to Expect Along the Valbona-Theth Hike
Below you’ll find my recount of the Valbona-Theth hike starting from Valbona.
shuttle to the valbona trailhead
Dirt Road to Rrogram
At the end of the main road in Valbona you’ll find the Valbona-Theth hike trailhead marked by a sign. After this point there’s about a 3km walk over a flat, stone-covered road to the tiny village of Rrogram. This stretch is gruelling, boring, and offers no shade so it’s best to get this section done as early in the day as possible.
In Rrogram there are a few guesthouses and cafes, but more importantly this is where the Valbona-Theth hike actually transforms into a real trail opposed to road. From this point the trail will pass by a few mountain farms and such, but you’ll be engulfed by trees with nothing to see for a while.
You may meet some friendly locals along the way. An adorable, tiny Albanian grandma offered me her grandson for marriage which I had a good laugh over before continuing on.
The Valbona-Theth hike is easy.
Rrogrami Village to Rrogrami Waterfall
After more elevation and more trees, eventually switch your focus to finding Rrogrami Waterfall which is supposed to be located here. I tried to find it, but came up short. Not sure if I was looking in the wrong place or if it had dried up by the time I visited in late July.
Shortly after this is where you’ll find the natural water source and a few small cafes. Locals say you can drink straight from the stream, but the Canadian in me who is too aware of beaver fever, suggests still filtering your water to avoid any issues. I always carry Aquatabs with me wherever I hike.
Albania Google Map – 200+ pins
Don’t feel like scrolling through blog posts trying to find things to do in Albania?
Then my Albania map is for you!
Get my 200+ recommendations all in one place for:
- Outdoors: hiking trails, waterfalls, secret beaches & national parks
- Places: ancient cities, beach towns & historical sites
- Things to do: viewpoints, unique activities & tours
- Planning: lodging, restaurants, bus stops & tedious details
Valbona Pass
After more hiking you’ll come to the highest point of the trail – Valbona Pass standing at 1,800m. The trail right before the pass is the most “difficult” section of the hike as it follows switchbacks up steeper terrain.
Valbona Pass is the best place to stop for a quick lunch, chat with other hikers and take photos. For reference, it’s located here.
You may notice all sorts of signs with “Peaks of the Balkan” written on them. This is where the 192km trans-national trail that stretches from Montenegro to Kosovo passes through the Valbona to Theth hike. Rather than follow these signs, head straight over the mountain and hit the trail in the direction of Theth.
If you’re interested there is a guided tour for the Peaks of the Balkans hike.
Valbona Pass
Valbona Pass to Theth
After Valbona Pass the trail quickly descends and is completely shaded by thick vegetation. When the afternoon temperatures hit and you’re hiking under the trees – this is when you’ll tank yourself for starting the hike in Valbona.
The descent is quick – it only took me 1.5hrs. Once you near Theth I’d recommend referencing Google Maps on your phone. The guesthouses in Theth are all over the place and it can be very confusing trying to find where you’re staying without a map.
what to wear on the valbona-theth hike
What to Wear/Pack for the Valbona-Theth Hike
What you pack for the Valbona-Theth varies slightly depending on the season. Need a reminder of Valbona month-by-month? Scroll back.
Here’s my go-to packing guide/travel essentials
I think 30-35L is the perfect size backpack for the Valbona-Theth hike. Generally you’ll need to pack your clothing, toiletries, travel towel, proper footwear (running shoes at the minimum – trail runners or hiking boots are best), snacks, and “camp shoes” – I like Crocs or sandals.
You can store your additional luggage at Wanderer’s Hostel in Shkoder if you opt to stay there before you leave for Valbona.
What to Pack for Valbona/Theth in Spring & Autumn (May-June/September-October)
This time of year can be chilly. You’ll want to pack pants, a long sleeve, a light jacket, and warmer sleeping clothes. I always like to have thin gloves and a toque on hand at this time of year too. Rain is unlikely, but possible so a waterproof layer may prove to be handy.
Gore-tex shoes and an extra pair of socks is ideal in spring as the snow melt can create muddy terrain.
What to Pack for Valbona/Theth in Summer (July-August)
This time of year is HOT. Shorts, T shirts, and light sleeping clothes are best. I brought a sweater but didn’t use it when I was there late July. You’ll want to bring sun protection, a hat, and sunglasses. A bathing suit is great if you want to take a dip in the river or jump in the Blue Eye once you get to Theth.
I recommend carrying minimum 3L of water in a bladder like this.
What to pack for Valbona/Theth in Winter (November-April)
Visiting Valbona/Theth in winter is uncommon. If you do visit, plan for cold temperatures and lots of snow. Winter boots, plenty of layers, and warm accessories/base layers are required too. Bring a mid layer and a light waterproof jacket. At the end of the day, use common sense, check weather reports, and understand what your body needs in whatever temperature you’ll be hiking in.
Valbona-theth hike packing list
Valbona-Theth Hike FAQs
What way should I hike the Valbona-Theth trail?
The best way to hike the Valbona-Theth trail is starting in Valbona, ending in Theth. I list the reasons for this above.
Best month to hike from Valbona to Theth?
The best months to hike from Valbona to Theth are June and September for the cooler temperatures. July and August seem to be the most popular months for the Valbona-Theth hike, but they are the hottest which can make hiking uncomfortable..
Is the Valbona-Theth hike hard? Can I hike Valbona-Theth if I’m not a hiker/fit?
The Valbona-Theth hike isn’t hard, but it is fairly long with a decent amount of elevation gain. I’d say a moderate level of fitness is required, but no previous hiking experience is needed.
Are there restaurants or supermarkets in Theth and Valbona?
Aside from a few small cafes along the Valbona-Theth hike, there is nowhere to buy food in Theth or Valbona aside from the guesthouses. You can bring your own snacks from Shkoder, but all meals will come from your guesthouse providers at an additional cost (cash only).
Do I need a guide for the Valbona-Theth hike? Is it safe to hike alone?
You do not need a guide for the Valbona-Theth hike and it’s safe to hike it alone – I hiked solo! There are plenty of other hikers on the trail if you need assistance.
Can I store my luggage in Shkoder for the Valbona-Theth hike?
Most hotels and hostels offer luggage storage in Shkoder. I can speak from personal experience that Wanderer’s Hostel in Shkoder stores your luggage at no additional cost while you’re away hiking in Theth and Valbona.
Can I pay with credit/debit in Theth or Valbona?
You must pay with cash in Valbona and Theth. No cards are accepted here.
Is there call service on the Valbona-Theth hike?
I had a local SIM card and found I had cell service for most of the trail – although spotty in some areas.
Do I need bear spray for the Valbona-Theth hike?
There are bears in Albania and there’s therefore always a chance you’ll run into one while hiking. I personally did not have bear spray and felt okay without it due to the vast amount of people on the trail. If you’re worried about bears on the Valbona-Theth hike try to hike in groups and stick to hiking in daylight hours to minimize your chance of (unlikely) run-ins.
Albania Google Map – 200+ pins
Don’t feel like scrolling through blog posts trying to find things to do in Albania?
Then my Albania map is for you!
Get my 200+ recommendations all in one place for:
- Outdoors: hiking trails, waterfalls, secret beaches & national parks
- Places: ancient cities, beach towns & historical sites
- Things to do: viewpoints, unique activities & tours
- Planning: lodging, restaurants, bus stops & tedious details
And that concludes my Valbona-Theth Hiking guide
Happy adventuring!
Taylor ♡
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About the Author
HI, I’m Taylor – the voice behind The Holistic Backpacker.
After moving to Banff National Park in 2020 I became an outdoor adventure enthusiast and vowed to never stop exploring.
I now spend my days travelling the world, climbing mountains, and spending nights under the stars in the Canadian Rockies backcountry.
I created The Holistic Backpacker so I could share my adventures and help connect people like you with the same amazing experiences.
