Shala River Travel Guide: Day Trips + Overnight Stays (Lumi i Shales)

Albania’s Shala River (Lumi i Shales in Albanian) is a total hidden gem. Located just off Komani Lake (aka the “Thailand of Albania”) the Shala River is perfect for those looking for a unique day trip from Shkoder or for an overnight getaway in nature. In this guide I’ll tell you all about visiting the Shala River plus link a day trip tour.

I stayed on the Shala River for 2 nights on my way to the Albanian Alps, so I can honestly and highly recommend spending a night or at least a day on the Shala River. This was one of my favourite experiences during my entire 1.5 month backpacking trip to Albania.

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Don’t feel like scrolling through blog posts trying to find things to do in Albania?

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**Find my recommended Albania itineraries linked in the section below**

Travel Insurance: ALWAYS purchase reliable travel insurance before your trip. This insurance is trusted by backpackers and adventure sport enthusiasts around the world. You can also use my link to receive 5% off SafetyWing policies. Here’s a blog post with more trustworthy travel insurance options you can compare.

Best Time to Visit: May to September.

Best Activities: Looking for the best tours and activities around Albania? See my Viator shop for my top recommendations.

Currency: Albanian LEK (aka ALL). This is a closed currency so you’ll need to wait until you’re in Albania to withdraw/exchange money. Make sure you exchange any leftover money before you leave the country too. Credins ATMs don’t have a service charge.

Transportation: to enter the country you’ll find 1 international airport in Tirana, 1 port in Saranda (daily ferry arrivals/departures to Corfu, Greece), and a bus line from Montenegro. Buses are very cheap here, but unreliable and taxis are pricey in comparison. Driving is chaotic and there are no trains within the country.

Phone: purchase a local SIM card from Vodafone – the plans are cheap and they include lots of data, however international minutes are typically not available. Vodafone storefronts can be found in bigger cities (Tirana, Saranda, Shkoder, etc).

Language: Albanian, however you can get by with English. Google translate is recommended for smaller cities/villages.

Safety: I found Albania to be very safe. I and my fellow travellers had no trouble with theft and I felt comfortable walking around as a solo female at night. People are generally very welcoming here, but always keep your wits about you – no matter where you travel.

Helpful Info: don’t drink the tap water or bring a purifying bottle like this one. Most hostels/guesthouses/hotels have laundry facilities.

Purchase my Albania map which is downloadable to google maps on your phone. It has 200+ pinned locations around the country – all available at your fingertips.

Packing Guide: here’s my ultimate packing guide/travel essentials.

Albania is one of the last “undiscovered” countries in Europe. Plan your trip while prices & tourism levels are low!

Albania Itineraries: 1 week south | 1 week north | 2 weeks whole country | 1 month for backpackers



What is the Shala River

The Shala River is a crystal clear river which stems from Theth National Park. It flows through the mountains and connects to Komani Lake.

Shala River hike
Mountains surrounding the Shala River at sunset

Where the Shala River attaches to Komani Lake is the main tourist hub for visiting the Shala River. There are guesthouses lining the river, beach bars, kayak rentals, horses, restaurants, and a hiking trail. At night fairy lights line the beach and you can see a clear view of the stars making the Shala River an epic escape in nature.

You can walk through the Shala River upstream to find a secluded piece of sanctuary, relax on the beach to enjoy the local atmosphere, or hop in the water for a refreshing (shallow) swim.

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Best Time to Visit the Shala River

Shala River
Shala River just before dark

The best time to visit the Shala River is between May 1 and September 30. During the winter season water levels in the area can vary and snow restricts passage which makes it unreliable for visitors.

I visited the Shala River in July which I thought was a nice time to visit. The only drawback to visiting the Shala River in July were the heavy crowds of tourists. For this reason visiting the Shala River in June or early September may be a bit more favourable.



How to get to the Shala River

As I mentioned the Shala River attaches to Komani Lake. Komani Lake is a crucial method of transportation in Albania’s north for those looking to access both Valbona Valley National Park and the Shala River.

ps – I’ve marked all the waypoints below on my Albania map.

How to get to the Shala River
Long boats on the way to the Shala River

I recommend visiting the Shala River right before Valbona as this is the most efficient way to include both destinations in your itinerary.


How to get to the Shala River: Day Trips

If you’re simply looking to visit the Shala River as a day trip rather than an overnight excursion you can book this tour. Booking the Shala River day trip tour includes transportation from Shkoder or Tirana, the boat ride across Komani Lake, and return transfer to the city your journey originated in.

Booking a day trip to the Shala River is the easiest option to get there.


How to get to the Shala River: Overnight Stays

To get to the Shala River for an overnight stay your journey will begin in Shkoder. Shkoder acts as the gateway to the Albanian Alps, so whether you’re visiting the Shala River, Theth, or Valbona you’ll begin all your adventures here.

Here’s my Guide to Shkoder + a Shkoder itinerary

From Shkoder you’ll need to make your way to the Komani Lake Ferry Port. The best way to do this is to book a bus which can be done here – you can also book this bus from Tirana, but most people come from Shkoder. If you have a personal vehicle you can drive to the ferry port, but when I was there it was extremely tight and I didn’t see any additional parking spots. It’s best to leave your car behind in Shkoder and make use of public transportation.

There’s no road to the Shala River so you must take a boat the rest of the way.

The guesthouse you opt to lodge at will send their staff to pick you up from the ferry port when the bus arrives. When I visited the Shala River in 2022 the ferry port was very chaotic and I didn’t know where I was going. You’ll see a handful of longboats (pictured above) around the port – head over to them and ask which boat you’ll be taking. When I was there there weren’t any signs so it was a guessing game until I spoke to the boat drivers.

If you’re staying overnight and are worried about “not being picked up” you can always contact the guesthouse you’re lodging at, but usually there’s no need to as they’ll be expecting your arrival. Social media is typically the best method to get in touch with the guesthouses.

After your stay on the Shala River the guesthouse staff will take you back to the Komani Lake ferry port the next morning in time for you to catch the ferry to Valbona or catch the bus back to Shkoder.

For those continuing on to Valbona – my hiker’s guide to the Albania Alps has everything you need to know.

From Berat: 4×4 tour: Mount Tomorr & Sotira Waterfall | Bogove Waterfall & Osumi Canyon | Osumi Canyon Rafting

From Permet: Benja Hot Springs & Lengarica Canyon | Horseback Riding | River Rafting

From Tirana: Gamti Mountain & Bovilla Lake Hiking Tour | Bike Tour | Traditional Cooking Class | Zipline

From Tirana or Shkoder: Day trip to the Blue Eye of Theth & Grunas Waterfall | Shala River Day Trip

From Vlora: Boat tour to Haxhi Ali Cave & Sazan Island – Karaburun | Snorkelling

From Saranda/Ksamil: Paddle boarding the Islands | Butrint, Ksamil, Blue Eye, Lekuresi Castle – 1 Day | Day Trip to Gjirokaster | Catamaran to Korez & Kokomo Beach

UNIQUE: Multi-day hiking tour: Peaks of the Balkans

You can find more Albania tours I recommend here



Shala River: Day Trip vs Overnight

Is it better to book a day trip to the Shala River or stay overnight?

Shala River, Albania
Walking back toward the Shala River after hiking upstream

I personally think an overnight stay at the Shala River is the best option. Price-wise it works out to be similar for overnight stays vs day trips. Staying overnight allows you to experience the river culture, gives you a longer time at the Shala River, and you’ll have the chance to enjoy the area in the evening after the crowds of day-trippers leave.

There are also hiking and kayaking opportunities here and if you take the day trip to the Shala River you may not have time to fully experience everything.

My favourite moment when I stayed at the Shala River was the evening when the fairly lights turned on. I could see the stars, there were horses nearby under the moonlight, and the cutest puppies sat with me on the beach as I sipped some raki from one of the beach bars – with very few people around.

A Shala River day trip is still a great option though, especially for those looking for a quicker way to visit.

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Where to Stay on the Shala River

There are guesthouses run by locals along both Komani Lake and the Shala River. The guesthouse next to the Shala River can be busy and loud during the day, but they’re right in the action. The guesthouses nearby on Komani Lake are much quieter which is better if you’re looking for a peaceful escape in nature.

Shala River guesthouses
Riverside Komani Lake Guesthouse

What I loved about staying at the guesthouses on the Shala River were the locals that ran them. They were kind, welcoming, generous, and went out of their way to make my experience special. All the food I ate while I was there was homemade and 100% locally sourced which was a huge plus too.


Where to Stay on Komani Lake

I stayed in Riverside Komani Lake’s dorm-style rooms. This guesthouse is around the corner from the Shala River, but the guesthouse’s staff will take you by boat to see the Shala River. It’s quiet here, the guesthouse is wooden which gives it a real cozy feel, and there’s a beautiful deck overlooking Komani Lake. You can also access the local hiking trail right from the guesthouse.

Homemade food at the Shala River
Locally sourced, homemade food from Riverside Komani Lake

The only downfall to this guesthouse was that the owners had limited English abilities. A younger member of the family was working here when I visited though who spoke decent English. He was in charge of boat transfers and did the majority of guest interaction.

Neomalsore Agrotourism is located a bit further away from the Shala River, but they offer many similar things as Riverside Komani Lake. Neomalsore is a bit more of an upscale option and it’s better for families with kids as they have outdoor play equipment.


Where to Stay on the Shala River

If you’re looking to stay directly on the Shala River there’s the Bee Eco Guesthouse and Blini Park among a few other guesthouses. You can also access the local hiking trail here, rent kayaks, and experience the full extent of the Shala River magic.



Shala River Hike: Balkoni Trail

There’s a hike at the Shala River which connects the area full of guesthouses on the Shala River with Riverside Komani Lake on the other side of the mountain – it’s called the Balkoni Hike which translates to the “Balcony Hike” in English.

Balkoni Hike summit looking toward Komani Lake

The Balkoni hike gains somewhere around 600-650m of elevation in total. I would budget at least 4hrs to complete this hike or more if you’re not an experienced hiker as the challenging terrain can add significant time to the hike.

The Balkoni hike requires scrambling and has a rather “intense” trail if you’re not used to hiking so I’d only recommend this one for experienced hikers who have proper footwear. The trail is very steep and there are many big steps and sliding involved. I found myself having to hold onto the trees and other vegetation to keep myself steady on the descent.

Although the trail connects both sides of the mountain, the objective of the Balkoni hike is to reach the top and return rather than hit both side of the mountain unless you set up a boat transfer in advance. The top of the mountain is the highlight as you’ll be rewarded with a view over Komani Lake as well as the mountains surrounding the Shala River.

The lighting for the Balkoni hike is absolutely stunning around sunset, so if you’re staying overnight on the Shala River I’d recommend going late afternoon when the lighting is good and the temperature cool slightly. Just try to be down before dark or be prepared with headlamps.

I recommend more Albania hikes in this post

Don’t feel like scrolling through blog posts trying to find things to do in Albania?

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  • Outdoors: hiking trails, waterfalls, secret beaches & national parks
  • Places: ancient cities, beach towns & historical sites
  • Things to do: viewpoints, unique activities & tours
  • Planning: lodging, restaurants, bus stops & tedious details

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Happy adventuring!

Taylor ♡


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About the Author

HI, I’m Taylor – the voice behind The Holistic Backpacker.

After moving to Banff National Park in 2020 I became an outdoor adventure enthusiast and vowed to never stop exploring.

I now spend my days travelling the world, climbing mountains, and spending nights under the stars in the Canadian Rockies backcountry.

I created The Holistic Backpacker so I could share my adventures and help connect people like you with the same amazing experiences.

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