3 Day THETH ITINERARY (Albania): Hikes & Things to do

Soaring mountains, stunning valleys, cute guesthouses, epic hiking trails, and friendly locals are all things you can expect in Theth National Park. In this post I’ll outline the best things to do in Theth and two stress-free 3 day Theth itineraries from both Shkoder and Valbona.

Theth is a must-see spot in Albania. The beautiful 2,000m+ mountains here are part of the Accursed Mountains – specifically the Dinaric Alps region. There are waterfalls and canyons and mysterious pools of icy cold water that make for a great polar dip setting even amidst Albania’s scorching summer temperatures.

This Theth guide will first go over important information regarding how to get to Theth, typical costs for visiting Theth, best time of year to visit Theth, what to pack for Theth, etc before getting into the best Theth hikes and a 3 day Theth itinerary.

If you’re planning to do the classic Shkoder/Theth/Valbona loop, here’s my 1 week north Albania itinerary.

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~ Taylor ♡


Don’t feel like scrolling through blog posts trying to find things to do in Albania?

My Albania map is for you.

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One click and everything is saved to your Google Maps app – a digital tour guide that fits in your pocket.

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**Find my recommended Albania itineraries linked in the section below**

Travel Insurance: ALWAYS purchase reliable travel insurance before your trip. This insurance is trusted by backpackers and adventure sport enthusiasts around the world. You can also use my link to receive 5% off SafetyWing policies. Here’s a blog post with more trustworthy travel insurance options you can compare.

Best Time to Visit: May to September.

Best Activities: Looking for the best tours and activities around Albania? See my Viator shop for my top recommendations.

Currency: Albanian LEK (aka ALL). This is a closed currency so you’ll need to wait until you’re in Albania to withdraw/exchange money. Make sure you exchange any leftover money before you leave the country too. Credins ATMs don’t charge a service charge.

Transportation: to enter the country you’ll find 1 international airport in Tirana, 1 port in Saranda (daily ferry arrivals/departures to Corfu, Greece), and a bus line from Montenegro. Buses are very cheap here, but unreliable. Driving is chaotic and there are no trains within the country. Taxis are fairly expensive.

Phone: purchase a local SIM card from Vodafone – the plans are cheap and they include lots of data, however international minutes are typically not available. Vodafone storefronts can be found in bigger cities (Tirana, Saranda, Shkoder, etc).

Language: Albanian, however you can get by with English. Google translate is recommended for smaller cities/villages.

Safety: I found Albania to be very safe. I and my fellow travellers had no trouble with theft and I felt comfortable walking around as a solo female at night. People are generally very welcoming here, but always keep your wits about you – no matter where you travel.

Helpful Info: don’t drink the tap water or bring a purifying bottle like this one. Bring an international travel adapter, and notify your bank before travelling.

Purchase my Albania map which is downloadable to google maps on your phone. It has 200+ pinned locations around the country – all available at your fingertips.

Packing Guide: here’s my ultimate packing guide/travel essentials.

Albania is one of the last “undiscovered” countries in Europe. Plan your trip while prices & tourism levels are low!

Albania Itineraries: 1 week south | 1 week north | 2 weeks whole country | 1 month for backpackers



How to get to Theth

Shkoder acts as the “entry point” for the Albanian alps. Whether you go directly to Theth or visit Valbona first, your journey to Theth will always begin in Shkoder.

Here’s my guide to Shkoder

how to get to theth - 3 day itinerary
Mountains in Theth at sunset

I recommend visiting Valbona first, then hiking the trail that connects to Theth. Hiking is the only way to get between the two national parks – hiking in the direction of Valbona to Theth is better than the opposite way. I explain the reasoning behind this logic and the trail details in this post.

If you’re opting to visit Valbona first you can read this post for more information on how to get to Valbona from Shkoder.

If you’d like go straight to Theth from Shkoder you have a few options:

  • Hire a taxi which costs around €150 one-way
  • Take a day tour like this one
  • Take a public bus (€10-€15 one-way) and stay the night. Buses leave Shkoder at 7:00am and they leave from Theth at 11:00am
    • Buses must be booked in advance. Your accommodation provider can help with this or you can use one of the many services like this one that seem to be popping up more and more frequently
  • Drive your own vehicle or rent a car (I recommend this site if you’re looking to rent a car)

The drive from Shkoder to Theth takes 2-2.5hrs. The road to Theth was previously rough and required 4×4, however it’s since been paved. All vehicles (including small cars) can easily make the drive to Theth now.

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Best Time of Year to Visit Theth

The best time of year to visit Theth depends on what type of activities and weather you’re after. I personally think June and September are the best months to visit Theth, but below I explain each month so you can choose the best timeframe to suit your Theth itinerary.

Theth itinerary for hikers
Shala River running through Theth National Park

In the winter months Theth receives heavy snowfall. Snow begins to fall in Theth from late October to early November and later starts melting from late April to early May.

By late June the peaks and higher altitude zones should lose their snow and become accessible – aka a great time of year to go hiking in Theth. June in Theth equals low crowds and cooler temperatures. 10-15 degrees during the day and 5 degrees at night; cooler at higher elevations if you’re hiking.

July and August are nice months to visit Theth as this is when other backpackers will be around, fields of alpine wildflowers will bloom, and there’s next to no rain. I visited during July and temperatures at elevation reached 35 degrees+ which made hiking difficult though. I ran out of water and started hiking at 4:00am to beat the heat.

September and October is heading into fall. September is similar to June for temperatures and this is when the fall colours change. October’s weather varies year-to-year and is a bit unpredictable.



Where to Stay in Theth

Almost all accommodations in Theth are family-run guesthouses. Make sure you book your guesthouse in advance for your Theth itinerary as they fill up during summer – especially the popular ones.

Theth itineraries for hikers
Looking down the Valbona Valley on the Valbona-Theth hike

Before you get to Theth I recommend none other than staying at Wanderer’s Hostel in Shkoder. It’s the best hostel in Shkoder, the staff will help you plan your trip to Theth, and you can store your extra luggage here while you’re away hiking in the alps.

Once you arrive in Theth the following are the best lodging options:



Where to Buy Food in Theth

There are currently no supermarkets or shops in Theth. This means all the food you eat will be cooked in the guesthouse you lodge at. Breakfast is usually included in your stay and lunch/dinner typically costs €10-€20 each.

Many guesthouses offer a “packed lunch option.” If you plan to be out all day hiking they’ll typically put together a sandwich and some snacks for you which is super convenient.

To save a few bucks you can purchase food in Shkoder and bring it to Theth. Most people bring snacks to Theth and purchase meals at their guesthouses.

Don’t feel like scrolling through blog posts trying to find things to do in Albania?

My Albania map is for you.

Get my 200+ recommendations for hiking trails, beaches, activities, and must-see spots all in one place.

One click and everything is saved to your Google Maps app – a digital tour guide that fits in your pocket.

see what other travellers are saying about my map



How Much Does it Cost to Visit Theth?

Let’s talk about cost for your Theth itinerary. The cost of visiting Theth varies depending on how long you stay and whether or not you decide to include Valbona in your itinerary.

theth itinerary with hiking trails
On the Valbona-Theth hike

Transportation from Shkoder to Theth varies. If you have your own car or are renting one you can drive from Shkoder. If you’re wanting to take a day trip to Theth you can go on a tour like this one. A taxi from Shkoder to Theth costs on average €150 so this is not recommended.

If you’d like to stay overnight there’s a bus leaving Shkoder at 7:00am and one leaving from Theth at 11:00am. This bus must be booked in advance – your accommodation provider can typically help with this, but there are more and more options like this one that keep popping up online. The bus cost €10-€15 one-way.

ps – I recommend this site if you’re looking to rent a car in Albania.

Generally guesthouses in Theth cost €20-€50 per night and include breakfast. You’ll still need to purchase lunch and dinner at your guesthouse which cost €10-€20 per meal. To save on these costs you can pack in your own food, but know in advance there’s no supermarket where you can purchase food once you arrive.

Once you arrive in Theth all activities are free. There are guided hiking tours that cost anywhere from €30-€100+, but hiking guides are not required in Theth.

On average, a 3 day trip to Theth costs around €100-€200 on a mid-range budget. There are no ATMs available once you arrive in Theth, so make sure you withdraw enough cash before you leave Shkoder.



What to Pack for Theth & Luggage Storage

What you pack for Theth varies slightly depending on the season. Need a reminder of Theth month-by-month? Scroll back.

theth and valbona itinerary
Hiking in nearby Valbona Valley National Park

I think 30-35L is the perfect size backpack for Theth if you plan to also complete the hike to Valbona. If you’re visiting Theth directly from Shkoder for the day or for 1 night a smaller day pack (around 24L) will do.

Keep in mind you can store your additional luggage at Wanderer’s Hostel if you opt to stay there before you leave for Theth.

Generally you’ll need your clothing, toiletries if staying overnight, travel towel, proper footwear (running shoes at the minimum – trail runners or hiking boots are best), snacks, and “camp shoes” – I like Crocs or sandals.

What to Pack for Theth in Spring/Autumn (May-June/September-October)

This time of year can be chilly. You’ll want to pack pants, a long sleeve, a light jacket, and warmer sleeping clothes. I always like to have thin gloves and a toque on hand at this time of year too. Rain is unlikely, but possible so a waterproof layer may prove to be handy.

Gore-tex shoes and an extra pair of socks is ideal in spring as the snow melt can create muddy terrain.

What to Pack for Theth in Summer (July-August)

This time of year is HOT. Shorts, T shirts, and light sleeping clothes are best. I brought a sweater but didn’t use it when I was there late July. You’ll want to bring sun protection, a hat, and sunglasses. A bathing suit is great for the Blue Eye of Theth if you’d like to go for a polar dip.

I recommend carrying minimum 3L of water in a bag like this.

What to pack for Theth in Winter (November-April)

Visiting Theth in winter is uncommon. If you do visit, plan for cold temperatures and lots of snow. Winter boots, plenty of layers, and warm accessories/base layers are required.



Things to do in Theth & Theth Hikes

Everything mentioned below is marked on my Albania map for your planning convenience.

From Berat: 4×4 tour: Mount Tomorr & Sotira Waterfall | Bogove Waterfall & Osumi Canyon | Osumi Canyon Rafting

From Gjirokaster: Vjosa River Rafting

From Permet: Benja Hot Springs & Lengarica Canyon | Horseback Riding

From Tirana: Gamti Mountain & Bovilla Lake Hiking Tour | Bike Tour | Traditional Cooking Class | Zipline

From Tirana or Shkoder: Day trip to the Blue Eye & Grunas Waterfall | Shala River Day Trip

From Vlora: Boat tour to Haxhi Ali Cave & Sazan Island – Karaburun | Snorkelling

From Saranda/Ksamil: Paddle boarding the Islands | Butrint, Ksamil, Blue Eye, Lekuresi Castle – 1 Day | Day Trip to Gjirokaster | Catamaran to Korez & Kokomo Beach

UNIQUE: Multi-day hiking tour: Peaks of the Balkans

You can find more Albania tours I recommend here



Swim in the Blue Eye of Theth

blue eye of theth itinerary
Blue Eye of Theth

The Blue Eye of Theth (GPS location) is an icy cold, small pond that’s constantly filled by the natural waterfall pictured above. It’s a great spot to stop for a polar dip as it’s the only “cold relief” you’ll get during peak summer. There’s a changing area setup here and a small stand selling overpriced snacks and water.

Depending on where your guesthouse is situated the roundtrip hike to the Blue Eye may be 20kms+ – it makes for a long day but if you bring food and an appropriate amount of water (I recommend at least 3L in a bag like this) it’s totally doable. If you have a car you can drive most of the way – if you’re hiking stick to the trail east of the Theth River to avoid walking on the road. More information about the Blue Eye of Theth hike can be found in this post.

The Blue Eye can be busy so I recommend trying to get there as early as possible to avoid crowds.

If you’re short for time there’s a day trip to Theth from Shkoder which takes you to the Blue Eye.


Hike to Grunas Waterfall

Grunas Waterfall in Theth - 3 day Theth itinerary
Grunas Waterfall

The Grunas Waterfall (GPS location) is located along the trail to the Blue Eye of Theth. It’s an idyllic waterfall and makes for the perfect “pitstop” along the way.

Grunas waterfall is located approx 4.5kms from the centre of Theth and takes around 1hr (one-way) to reach. More information about the Grunas Waterfall hike can be found in this post.


Hike to Grunas Canyon

grunts canyon - 3 day theth itinerary
Grunas Canyon

Grunas Canyon (GPS location) is located right by Grunas Waterfall. There’s a bridge crossing the canyon which gives you the unique vantage point pictured above. If you opt to drive toward the Blue Eye there’s a cool viewpoint of the canyon here too.


Photograph Theth Church

Theth church - 3 day Theth itinerary
Theth Church

The Theth Church (GPS location) is located very close to the centre of town which makes for an easy walk and a great photo-op.


Hike to Valbona

valbona-theth hike - 3 day theth itinerary
Views from the pass on the Valbona-Theth hike

The Valbona-Theth hike is the most well known trail in the Balkans. It’s around 15kms and connects Theth and Valbona – it’s the only way to travel between the two parks without having to backtrack to Shkoder.

This hike isn’t complicated and although a bit long, it’s doable for hikers of all abilities levels. The highlight of the trail is when it crosses the mountain pass dividing Valbona and Theth. The viewpoint here is breathtaking. If you aren’t interested in completing the entire hike, you can hike to the pass then return to Theth in the same day.

This trail is best hiked in the direction of Valbona to Theth.



3 Day Theth Itinerary

Below you’ll find two Theth itineraries – one beginning in Shkoder and one beginning in Valbona. I recommend spending at least one full day in Theth, however spending 2 days+ is recommended as there are more hiking trails you can enjoy during a longer visit.

3 day theth itinerary
Sheep roaming in Theth

I recommend visiting both the Shala River and Valbona Valley PRIOR to Theth. The Shala River (aka the “Thailand of Albania”) is on the way to Valbona making this trip a nice circuit.

If you’re looking for a complete Albanian Alps itinerary including the Shala River, Valbona, and Theth you can reference this post.

If you only have time to visit Theth for the day you can take a tour like this from Shkoder.


3 Day Theth Itinerary from Shkoder

Stay in Shkoder the evening prior to departing for Theth.

Day 1: Shkoder to Theth

  • Catch the 7:00am bus from Shkoder the Theth. Some hostels/hotels have early breakfasts. If not pack one the night prior to bring. Wanderer’s Hostel provides an early breakfast for this reason
  • Arrive in Theth around 9:30am
  • Spend the day enjoying the mountain scenery, have lunch at your guesthouse, and check out the Theth Church
  • Eat dinner at your guesthouse with fellow hikers and enjoy the sunset alpenglow
  • My top guesthouse recommendation: Shpella Guesthouse

Day 2: Hike to the Blue Eye

  • Eat the included breakfast at your guesthouse and ask for a packed lunch
  • Hike to the Blue Eye of Theth, stopping at Grunas Canyon and Grunas Waterfall along the way. This will take all day. Bring a bathing suit and a travel towel so you can polar dip in the Blue Eye.
  • Have dinner at your guesthouse and enjoy sunset

Day 3: Theth to Shkoder

  • Wake up early to see sunrise in the valley
  • Have breakfast at your guesthouse
  • Catch the 11:00am bus back to Shkoder
  • Spend the night in Shkoder – here’s my Shkoder guide for activity recommendations

**Ensure you book this entire Theth itinerary before you get to Shkoder.


3 Day Theth Itinerary from Valbona

Day 1: Valbona to Theth

  • Hike to Theth from Valbona via this famous trail. It will take you at least 5 hours so you should arrive in the afternoon in time for lunch at your guesthouse
  • Have a nap, chill for a while, or wander over to Theth’s Church. Tomorrow is another big day of hiking
  • Have dinner and enjoy the sunset alpenglow
  • My top guesthouse recommendation: Shpella Guesthouse

Day 2: Hike to the Blue Eye

  • Eat the included breakfast at your guesthouse and ask for a packed lunch
  • Hike to the Blue Eye of Theth and stop at Grunas Canyon and Grunas Waterfall along the way. This will take all day. Bring a bathing suit and a travel towel so you can polar dip in the Blue Eye.
  • Have dinner at your guesthouse and enjoy sunset

Day 3: Theth to Shkoder

  • Wake up early to see sunrise in the valley
  • Have breakfast at your guesthouse
  • Catch the 11:00am bus back to Shkoder
  • Spend the night in Shkoder – here’s my Shkoder guide for activity recommendations. I recommend staying at Wanderer’s Hostel.

**Ensure you book this entire Theth itinerary before you get to Shkoder.



Don’t feel like scrolling through blog posts trying to find things to do in Albania?

My Albania map is for you.

Get my 200+ recommendations for hiking trails, beaches, activities, and must-see spots all in one place.

One click and everything is saved to your Google Maps app – a digital tour guide that fits in your pocket.

see what other travellers are saying about my map





Happy adventuring!

Taylor ♡


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About the Author

HI, I’m Taylor – the voice behind The Holistic Backpacker.

After moving to Banff National Park in 2020 I became an outdoor adventure enthusiast and vowed to never stop exploring.

I now spend my days travelling the world, climbing mountains, and spending nights under the stars in the Canadian Rockies backcountry.

I created The Holistic Backpacker so I could share my adventures and help connect people like you with the same amazing experiences.

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